278 Talloipe Rheinwald

This mountain village is defined by its position between the Splügen and San Bernardino passes. In Splügen, large, Italianate palazzi stand right next to the sun-browned wooden houses of the Walsers. This old Bündner pass village was awarded the Wakker Prize by the Swiss Heritage Society for its historic centre.

The valley trail begins at the cross-country skiing centre on the edge of the village. Cross a bridge just after the start. Continue along the trail, always following the banks of the Hinterrhein. With sparse forest and wide, open expanses alternating around you, enjoy views of the Rheinwald mountains, including the Guggernüll, Einshorn and Chilchalphorn.

This thrilling cross-country route almost didn’t exist: around the time of World War II there were plans to flood the village of Splügen to create a mighty dam. Fortunately, the gutsy Rheinwald locals campaigned successfully against the
construction project. Had they failed, it is unlikely that Bündner Bergkäse would have been made in Nufenen in the 1950s, either. A lot has happened since then: the cheese has gained widespread renown, and for several years now, its makers’ very own robot, Charlie, has tended diligently to over 12,000 rounds of cheese in the cellar of the dairy cooperative.